Cashmere Trivia: Characteristics, Differences, and Quality

Cashmere is a type of wool that comes from goats specially bred for their soft undercoat, from which cashmere fiber is made. The word “cashmere” is an Anglicization of “Kashmir,” the northernmost region of India, where precious fibers have been made for thousands of years.

Cashmere comes from cashmere and pashmina goats and is typically produced in Central Asia, though other areas, including Europe and America, have developed their own cashmere industries. The hair of cashmere-producing goats has a two-layer structure: the rough, coarse outer layer is meant to protect against the elements and is used for things like brushes.

However, it’s the dense, soft, and fine undercoat that is used to make fabric, and this undercoat is what gives cashmere wool its characteristics.

Why is cashmere so expensive?

Cashmere is incredibly soft, warm, lightweight, and breathable, making it a well-known staple for fall and winter closets. High-quality cashmere is also durable and resilient, meaning it won’t lose its shape over time, allowing you to enjoy its premium quality and warmth for many years to come.

But because of these qualities, and the complex and time-consuming way cashmere is produced, it comes with a hefty price tag. You may find cashmere sweaters from high-end brands costing anywhere from hundreds to a thousand dollars. The price will vary depending on the type of cashmere fabric and the quality of its construction.

Types of Cashmere

Cashmere comes in grades, which directly reflect its quality. These grades are separated into three different categories: A, B, and C.

Grade C is the lowest quality, with cashmere hairs that are about 30 microns wide. Grade B cashmere is a mid-grade, with hair that is about 18 to 19 microns wide. Grade A cashmere is the finest, with hairs that are 14 microns wide. The finer the cashmere hair, the more delicate it feels, and the higher the quality of the final sweater or cardigan.

Cashmere products also differ based on region, as different regions may have different production methods. While China and Mongolia top cashmere production, the highest quality cashmere is often known to be produced by local people residing in the mountainous regions of India’s Kashmir region.

It’s believed that the harsh winter environment and diet of the Kashmiri goats lead them to grow a finer and denser undercoat, which makes it the highest quality source for cashmere sweaters, shawls, and cardigans.

Before buying cashmere, beware of anything that isn’t 100% cashmere. Many companies will produce what they call “cashmere blends,” in which they mix cashmere fibers with cheaper, lower-quality wools or nylons. These blends completely lack the unique qualities that cashmere possesses. 100% cashmere is flexible, warm in the winter, and cool and dry in the spring and fall.

What is cashmere “ply”?

Ply refers to the number of cashmere threads twisted together to make a yarn strip. A one-ply is designed to be thin and stretchy, so it won’t be as warm as a thicker cashmere. Two-ply cashmere is the ideal type of cashmere, as it balances warmth, elasticity, and lightweightness. Three and four-ply are not necessarily warmer or softer, but they are significantly heavier than two-ply. 

How to spot quality cashmere

First, give it a feel. Cashmere is the softest, most luxurious fiber. Your fingertips should feel pleasant and satisfied when they touch a quality piece of cashmere. However, if it’s overly soft or mushy, it may have been treated with chemicals to give it an artificial softness, or it may have been over-washed by the manufacturer. These treatments damage the fibers, reducing the durability and longevity of the cashmere.

Next, stretch it out. Lower-quality cashmere blends won’t return to their shape. Two-ply 100% cashmere will hold its shape incredibly well. When stretching cashmere, you can also get a good look at how the yarn is knitted. If it’s very loose and you can see through it, this indicates low quality. 

Finally, check the fibers. Run your hands over the surface of the fibers in slow, sweeping motions. If the fibers loosen and roll up in your hand, the cashmere may be made from short cashmere hairs. High-quality cashmere sweaters are made from long, thin cashmere fibers, which won’t pill right away. While all cashmere will pill over time, if the fibers are already pilling right off the shelf, the cashmere is likely of low quality.